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Milan's sights divide cleanly into two groups, and knowing which is which is most of the planning. One group is time-locked: Leonardo's Last Supper at Santa Maria delle Grazie admits 40 people for 15 minutes at a time, on compulsory booking released only quarterly. The other group — the cathedral and its roof terraces, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the Castello Sforzesco and its museums, the Pinacoteca di Brera — can be walked into, and all of it sits within about a kilometre of the cathedral square.

Build the day around the one fixed slot if you have it, and group the rest by district rather than by fame. The cathedral, the Galleria and the opera house are a single short walk; the castle and Parco Sempione are the next; Brera is its own quarter and deserves an afternoon. The Navigli and the Quadrilatero are evening and morning respectively, and both are places rather than monuments.