How to Get Around Guatemala

Domestic flights connect Guatemala City with Flores, the gateway to Tikal, in about an hour — against an eight to ten hour overland drive. On a short trip that one flight buys you a day.

Tourist shuttle vans between the main towns are the standard and comfortable way to travel. Do not use the local “chicken buses”: the advisory is explicit that these recycled school buses are mechanically unreliable and unsafe, often overcrowded, frequently driven at excessive speed by unlicensed drivers, and frequently involved in major accidents. In Guatemala City the Transmetro and Transurbano lines are the safer public option.

Taxis: colour matters. Hotel taxis and the yellow cabs — taxis amarillos — are considered safe. White taxis are independent and considered dangerous. Ask at a hotel desk rather than flagging one down, and use authorised cabs at the airport.

Renting a car gives independence, but mountain roads are winding, driving at night is discouraged nationwide, and roadblocks are frequent. Avoid tuk-tuks and moto-taxis — licensed as taxis, unregulated in practice, and frequently in accidents.

Several departments and every border area carry advisories; the reasons are on Stay Safe.

The bus you should not take

The famous ones. Avoid the local public buses known as “chicken buses”. Most are recycled school buses that are mechanically unreliable and unsafe, they are often overcrowded, unlicensed drivers often drive at excessive speeds, and they are frequently involved in major road accidents. They are photogenic and they are the most dangerous way to cross this country.

In Guatemala City, Transmetro and Transurbano are the safer public lines, though passengers have been attacked at stations. Travel only in daylight, check the operator is reputable before booking, and — the detail that catches people — confirm your drop-off point, because Guatemala City Council no longer allows some intercity buses to enter the city centre. A ticket can legitimately end somewhere other than where you assumed.

Taxis, by colour

Hotel-associated taxis and the yellow cabs that operate in Guatemala City are considered safe. White taxis are operated independently and are considered dangerous — their drivers have been involved in extortion, petty theft and other crimes. So: do not board at taxi stands or flag one in the street, ask for a taxi at the front desk if you are in a hotel, arrange your pickup before you arrive by air or use an authorised cab at the airport, note the driver's name from their identification card and the licence number, never share with a stranger, agree the fare in advance, and carry small notes.

The ride-share thing nobody warns you about

Several ride-sharing services operate. Their drivers are sometimes targeted by taxi drivers who oppose the apps, and as a result some will ask you to sit in the front seat — not for company, but to disguise the fact that they are providing a ride-share. It is worth knowing before the request surprises you. Confirm the driver's identity and licence plate before getting in, and use the app's own safety features.

Avoid tuk-tuks, rickshaw taxis and moto-taxis altogether. They operate on taxi licences but are not regulated and are frequently involved in accidents.

Roadblocks, which are routine

Roadblocks for roadworks are common in the northern and western departments — Alta Verapaz, Escuintla, Huehuetenango, Petén, Quiché and San Marcos — and can cause substantial delays. Illegal roadblocks are also frequent, including on the main roads to Guatemala City's La Aurora airport, so put slack into any departure day. Do not go through a roadblock without stopping, even if it appears unattended.

PROVIAL, the government roadside assistance agency, patrols most of the major highways and publishes road conditions, though patrols are infrequent. Police presence is scarce on the isolated dirt roads near Lake Atitlán and on the road from Godínez to Panajachel. Drive defensively, avoid travelling after dark, keep doors and windows locked, and expect to change plans around a blockage.

Border crossings

There is a heightened security presence at the official Guatemala–Mexico crossings because of migration flows, with random vehicle searches by military and police along all borders and long waits. Many border crossings close for lunch and at dusk, which is the kind of detail that turns a plan into an overnight. Cross only at official points, allow for delays, and do not arrive after dark.