How to Get Around Israel

Getting in. Ben Gurion, between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, handles almost all international traffic, with Ramon near Eilat taking some. Security screening on arrival and departure is thorough and questioning can be lengthy; allow three hours for departure.

Trains. Israel Railways runs along the coast from Nahariya through Haifa and Tel Aviv to Be’er Sheva, with a fast line to Jerusalem taking under half an hour from the airport. Clean, cheap and easy.

Buses reach everywhere the trains do not, run by Egged and others, and are the backbone of the network. Sherut shared taxis run fixed routes, cost slightly more, leave when full, and — importantly — are among the few things that operate on Shabbat.

The Rav-Kav card covers trains, buses and light rail nationally and is worth getting at the airport.

Shabbat. Public transport stops from Friday afternoon until Saturday night almost everywhere except Haifa. Plan around it or hire a car, which is the usual solution for seeing the country.

Checkpoints, and the rule that matters most

Do not pass through a checkpoint without stopping, even if it appears unattended. The Israel Defence Forces control access to the West Bank through a series of security checkpoints, the Palestinian Authority police may do so within their jurisdiction, and after incidents of politically motivated violence additional checkpoints may be established without notice. Expect multiple roadblocks and checkpoints on any drive, be ready to present identification documents, and follow the instructions of police or military officers if you are stopped.

Two things to plan around rather than discover. There is no guarantee you will be allowed through a checkpoint even with a valid visa and authorisation to enter — so no itinerary should depend on a single crossing. And during religious holidays, checkpoint and border-crossing hours of operation change. Personal electronic devices may be searched at Israeli military checkpoints.

Before moving anywhere in the country, check what local measures are in force, that the roads are open, and that the trains and buses you were counting on are running.

Driving: four things that must be in the car

Both the 1968 version of the international driving permit and your own driving licence — you need them together, and you cannot buy an IDP once you have left home, so get it before you travel. A green card, to prove you hold the minimum insurance cover. And a high-visibility vest and a warning-triangle kit, both mandatory: if you have to stop on the roadside and get out, you must wear the vest and set out the triangles.

Hire cars and the West Bank. If you want to drive across into the West Bank, check that your insurance covers you there — some hire companies do not insure vehicles taken in. It may be easier to hire a fully insured car from a company in East Jerusalem.

Do not drive into ultra-Orthodox Jewish areas of Jerusalem on Shabbat, from sunset on Friday to nightfall on Saturday. If you try, residents may throw stones at the car. Police operate radar speed traps and issue heavy fines, and it is not safe to hitchhike.

Road conditions, which differ by territory

Most roads in Israel are in good condition. In the West Bank they are generally poor, and in Gaza they are severely damaged by the conflict and military operations. Winter precipitation causes difficult driving and road closures; traffic jams, narrow winding mountain roads and flash floods in some regions do the rest.

There is a high rate of road accidents, from excessive speed and drivers not always respecting the right of way, especially at roundabouts. Driving can also be erratic around dusk during Ramadan, when people are hurrying home to break the fast. Drive defensively, plan a rural trip in advance, carry a phone and charger, and know the route before you set off.

Trains

The network is extensive and the trains are modern, clean and frequent. Israel Railways runs along the coast from Nahariya through Haifa and Tel Aviv to Be'er Sheva, with a fast line to Jerusalem taking under half an hour from the airport. It does not cover Gaza or parts of the West Bank.

Two operational details: you pass a security check to reach the platforms, so allow extra time, and validate your ticket to avoid a fine. Avoid travelling alone late at night.

Buses and sherut

The bus system is reliable and reaches everywhere the trains do not — Egged and others run it, and it is the backbone of the network. While waiting, stay behind the bollards or behind the bus stop rather than out at the kerb, keep away from large groups, and tell the driver about anything suspicious.

Sherut shared taxis run fixed routes, cost slightly more than a bus, leave when full, and — importantly — are among the few things that operate on Shabbat.

Taxis

Taxis are generally reliable in both Israel and the West Bank, and in the West Bank they are the easiest way to move around. Apps are available. Negotiate the fare in advance, never share with strangers, and avoid travelling alone at night.

Shabbat and the Rav-Kav

Public transport stops from Friday afternoon until Saturday night almost everywhere except Haifa. Plan around it, take a sherut, or hire a car — which is the usual solution for seeing the country.

The Rav-Kav card covers trains, buses and light rail nationally and is worth getting at the airport rather than at a city counter on your first morning.

The desert

Roads can flood in extreme weather, and flash flooding is a particular risk in the arid southern Negev — check locally which areas are at risk. For any desert trip: go with others, carry a supply of water, take a mobile phone, and tell someone your itinerary and expected return time.

Which areas the advisories tell you to avoid — and which routes they specifically except from that advice, because reading only the exclusions cancels trips the advisory itself routes — is on Stay Safe — along with the shelter drill, and, further down the same page, the entry rules, the electronic travel authorisation and what the Taba crossing costs.