Virgin Islands Culture

Local identity is island-specific before it is territorial. People from St. Croix are Crucians and will tell you so; the friendly rivalry between Crucians and St. Thomians is real and long-running.

Quelbe — also called scratch band or fungi music — is the territory's official music, played on washboard, gourd, ukulele and often a tailpipe used as a horn, with lyrics that traditionally carried the gossip and grievances of the moment. It is still played live and is not a heritage performance.

Greetings matter more here than most visitors realise. Say "good morning" or "good afternoon" before anything else — before a question, an order or a request for directions. Opening with the request itself reads as rude, and this is the single easiest adjustment to make.

The food is Afro-Caribbean with Danish and Puerto Rican layers: kallaloo, a leafy stew; fungi, a cornmeal side, not to be confused with the music; pate, a fried turnover sold from roadside stands; johnnycake; conch in every form. Maubi, a fermented bark drink, is an acquired taste and worth acquiring.

Carnival is the year's centre of gravity, with calypso competitions, J'ouvert before dawn, and troupes in mocko jumbie stilt costumes descended from West African tradition. Each island holds its own.

Transfer Day, 31 March, marks the handover from Denmark, and Emancipation Day, 3 July, marks 1848. Both are public holidays and both carry more weight locally than the American ones around them.