How to get around Caprarola

Caprarola takes some effort to reach, which is part of why a village of five thousand with a world-class palace stays quiet.

There is no railway in the town. It is positioned between the old consular roads of the Cassia and the Flaminia, now state roads, and those are the approaches — by car, or by bus from Viterbo.

The village itself is perched on a tufa spur on the southern slope of the Cimini, so it is steep, and the palace stands above and over it.

Lake Vico is immediately west and needs a car to reach usefully, as does Monte Fogliano within the comune.

Pairing with other Viterbo-province sites — Bomarzo's Sacred Grove, Villa Lante at Bagnaia — is a driving day rather than a public-transport one.

Two Italian rules apply here as everywhere in the country. A ticket bought from a kiosk or machine must be validated on board before the journey starts, or an inspector will issue an on-the-spot fine. And driving into a historic centre usually needs a ZTL pass, with the boundary marked in black on a yellow sign.

By road. Caprarola lies between the Cassia and the Flaminia, the old consular roads now numbered as state roads, which are the practical approaches from Rome or from the north.

By rail. There is no station in the town. Viterbo is the nearest rail hub, with bus connections onward.

In the village. Perched on a tufa spur on the south side of the Monti Cimini. Steep, compact and walked, with the Villa Farnese dominating it from above.

To Lake Vico. Immediately west of the town, in the same volcanic hills; a car is needed.

To Monte Fogliano. Within the comune, in the Cimini range.

Pairing. Bomarzo is close enough for the same day, and the two are deliberate opposites — the Sacred Grove there may have been conceived as a foil to exactly this kind of Renaissance symmetry.

Mobility note. A steep hill village approached by road only, with a monumental building at the top of it.

Validate your ticket. If you buy a ticket from a kiosk or machine, you must validate it on public transport before you start your journey. Officials patrol and issue an on-the-spot fine if your ticket is not validated.

ZTL. You need a pass to drive into the historic centre of many Italian towns in a private or hire car. The boundaries are marked with the letters ZTL in black on a yellow sign, and a camera reads your plate.

Strikes. Transport strikes in Italy are often called at short notice, which matters most if your visit depends on a single connection.

Taxis. Use only officially licensed taxis, which carry a taxi sign on the roof and a company name and number on the side.