How to get around Castel Gandolfo

Castel Gandolfo is one of the few hill towns south of Rome that works properly without a car, because it has its own railway station on the Rome–Albano line.

The station sits at 388 metres, just below the historic centre and above Lake Albano — which means the train leaves you close but low. The walk up to the ridge is short and steep.

On the ridge itself everything is walkable and most of it is one street: the main square with Bernini's church, the entrance to the Apostolic Palace, and the belvederes over the lake.

Getting down to the lake is the other gradient. The shore, the Stadio Olimpico and the lidos are a long descent below the town, and the climb back up is the part day-trippers underestimate.

A car opens the rest of the Castelli Romani — Albano, Marino, Monte Cavo and the park roads — but it is a liability in the town itself.

Two Italian rules apply here as everywhere in the country. A ticket bought from a kiosk or machine must be validated on board before the journey starts, or an inspector will issue an on-the-spot fine. And driving into a historic centre usually needs a ZTL pass, with the boundary marked in black on a yellow sign.

From Rome by train. The Rome–Albano line serves Castel Gandolfo's own station, below the historic centre and overlooking Lake Albano, at 388 metres. This is the sensible way to come.

Station to town. Short but steep: the historic centre sits above the station on the crater rim.

Within the town. Walkable end to end. The centre is a ridge, so the walking is level once you are up there — it is only getting up and down that costs anything.

Down to the lake. A substantial descent to the shore, the lidos and the Stadio Olimpico. Allow for the return climb, which is the harder half.

By car. The comune is crossed by the Via Appia and the lake and Maremmana roads, and the main entrance of the Apostolic Palace stands at about 392 metres where they meet. Parking in the centre is limited.

Onward in the Castelli Romani. Albano Laziale is immediately adjacent, Marino borders the comune at Monte Cucco, and Monte Cavo dominates the hills above. These are easy by car, awkward by public transport.

Mobility note. The ridge itself is manageable; the connections between station, town and lake are not, being steep in both directions.

Validate your ticket. If you buy a ticket from a kiosk or machine, you must validate it on public transport before you start your journey. Officials patrol and issue an on-the-spot fine if your ticket is not validated.

ZTL. You need a pass to drive into the historic centre of many Italian towns in a private or hire car. The boundaries are marked with the letters ZTL in black on a yellow sign, and a camera reads your plate.

Strikes. Transport strikes in Italy are often called at short notice, which matters most if your visit depends on a single connection.

Taxis. Use only officially licensed taxis, which carry a taxi sign on the roof and a company name and number on the side.