How to get around Cerveteri

Cerveteri is an easy trip from Rome and a slightly awkward one to do without a car.

The town lies 42 kilometres from Rome, reached by road from the Via Aurelia. The coastal railway runs through the comune's seaward frazioni rather than the town itself, so arriving by train means a connection up from the coast.

The town centre is compact and walkable, on the south-western corner of the ancient plateau.

The Banditaccia is a short distance out of the town on its own plateau, signposted and reachable on foot in a long walk or in a few minutes by car. Inside, the visitable part is ten hectares of the four hundred, laid out as walkable streets between the mounds, with individual tombs entered by steps.

The rest of the comune is dispersed across Sasso, Ceri, Borgo San Martino, I Terzi, Valcanneto, Cerenova and Campo di Mare, spread between the hills and the sea, and covering more than one of them needs a car.

Two Italian rules apply here as everywhere in the country. A ticket bought from a kiosk or machine must be validated on board before the journey starts, or an inspector will issue an on-the-spot fine. And driving into a historic centre usually needs a ZTL pass, with the boundary marked in black on a yellow sign.

From Rome. 42 kilometres, by road via the Aurelia. This is the normal approach and makes Cerveteri a half-day trip from the city.

By rail. The coastal line serves the seaward side of the comune rather than the hill town; expect a bus or taxi connection up from the coast.

In the town. Compact and walkable, occupying the south-western corner of the tufa plateau on which Caere stood.

To the Banditaccia. A short way out of the centre on its own plateau. Walkable, but most visitors drive.

Inside the necropolis. Ten visitable hectares out of four hundred, laid out as streets between the mounds. The ground is mostly level, though individual tombs are entered down steps and the site is exposed.

Around the comune. Sasso sits under Monte Santo at 430 metres, Ceri on its own plateau to the south, and Cerenova and Campo di Mare on the coast. These are separate places, and a car is needed.

Mobility note. The main avenue of the Banditaccia is more manageable than Tarquinia's tomb shafts, but entering individual chambers still means steps.

Validate your ticket. If you buy a ticket from a kiosk or machine, you must validate it on public transport before you start your journey. Officials patrol and issue an on-the-spot fine if your ticket is not validated.

ZTL. You need a pass to drive into the historic centre of many Italian towns in a private or hire car. The boundaries are marked with the letters ZTL in black on a yellow sign, and a camera reads your plate.

Strikes. Transport strikes in Italy are often called at short notice, which matters most if your visit depends on a single connection.

Taxis. Use only officially licensed taxis, which carry a taxi sign on the roof and a company name and number on the side.