How to get around Ponza

Ponza has to be reached by sea, and that single fact organises any visit.

The island is reachable from the mainland by hydrofoils and ferries connecting the port of Ponza with Anzio, San Felice Circeo, Formia, Terracina and Naples. There is no other way in.

Once landed, the island has an internal road system, and two long Roman tunnels joining the old port of Santa Maria to the hillside above are still used by cars.

The distances are small. This is 7.5 square kilometres, running from the Faraglione La Guardia in the south to Punta dell'Incenso in the north-east, with the town of Ponza in the centre-south on the eastern coast.

The settlements are clustered. Guarini, Giancos, I Conti and Santa Maria lie near the town of Ponza; Campo Inglese and Le Forna are to the north.

But it is hilly, not flat — Monte Guardia reaches 280 metres at the southern tip, Monte Core 201 in the centre — and the coast is cliff rather than shore, so a boat is often the practical way to reach a beach.

Two Italian rules apply here as everywhere in the country. A ticket bought from a kiosk or machine must be validated on board before the journey starts, or an inspector will issue an on-the-spot fine. And driving into a historic centre usually needs a ZTL pass, with the boundary marked in black on a yellow sign.

Getting to the island. Hydrofoils and ferries from Anzio, San Felice Circeo, Formia, Terracina and Naples, to the port of Ponza. There is no airport.

On the island. An internal road system, and two long Roman tunnels between the old port of Santa Maria and the villas above, still used by vehicles.

Where things are. The town of Ponza is in the centre-south on the eastern coast, with Guarini, Giancos, I Conti and Santa Maria nearby; Campo Inglese and Le Forna are to the north.

The one low coast. The inlet holding the port of Sant'Antonio, Giancos and Santa Maria, built up by torrential debris into a fertile valley. Everywhere else is cliff.

To the beaches. All of them are gravel and stone; Chiaia di Luna, on the south-west coast, is the only one with any fine sand and sits beneath a sheer cliff.

To the other islands. Gavi is 120 metres off the north-east end. Zannone is uninhabited, Palmarola inhabited only in summer, and Ventotene is the only other permanently inhabited island in the archipelago.

Mobility note. This is a predominantly hilly volcanic island rising to 280 metres, with cliff coast and a stepped port town on two street levels.

Validate your ticket. If you buy a ticket from a kiosk or machine, you must validate it on public transport before you start your journey. Officials patrol and issue an on-the-spot fine if your ticket is not validated.

ZTL. You need a pass to drive into the historic centre of many Italian towns in a private or hire car. The boundaries are marked with the letters ZTL in black on a yellow sign, and a camera reads your plate.

Strikes. Transport strikes in Italy are often called at short notice, which matters most if your visit depends on a single connection.

Taxis. Use only officially licensed taxis, which carry a taxi sign on the roof and a company name and number on the side.