Santuario di Monte Berico

The Sanctuary of Monte Berico stands on the hill directly above Vicenza, reached by a covered arcade of some 150 arches that climbs from the edge of the city. It is a working pilgrimage church, it holds a major Veronese in its refectory, and its terrace gives the best view of Vicenza and the plain there is.

This is an active pilgrimage church, and many of the people on the Portici are walking up for reasons that have nothing to do with sightseeing. Quiet inside, and no photography during services.

Walking up the arcade rather than taking the bus is both the intended experience and the one that keeps traffic off a narrow hill road.

The Veronese survived deliberate damage in 1848 and an expensive restoration since; the refectory's limits on numbers and light exist because of that history.

The church is free, open daily, and functions as a place of worship first -- modest dress is expected and services take precedence over sightseeing. The refectory holding the Veronese has its own limited hours, and it is worth checking them, since this is the single most missed thing on the hill.

The Portici climb takes around twenty minutes on foot from the Viale X Giugno at the southern edge of the centre. City bus 8 runs to the top for those who would rather not walk up.

Early morning gives the clearest view from the terrace, before the plain hazes over -- in summer the haze can close the view completely by midday.

Clear winter days after rain are the best of all for the Alps on the horizon.

8 September, the feast of the Madonna of Monte Berico, is the sanctuary at its liveliest and its most crowded, and is Vicenza's own day rather than a visitor event.