Discover Roman Ghetto

The Roman Ghetto was established in 1555 by Pope Paul IV, by the bull Cum nimis absurdum of 14 July 1555, in the Rione Sant'Angelo — the area now bounded by Via del Portico d'Ottavia, Lungotevere dei Cenci, Via del Progresso and Via di Santa Maria del Pianto, beside the Tiber and the Theatre of Marcellus.

The community it enclosed is probably the oldest in the world outside the Middle East, with a continuous existence from classical times to the present. The first record of Jews in Rome is 161 BC, when Jason son of Eleazar and Eupolemus son of Johanan are said to have come as envoys from Judah Maccabee. By 1555 it numbered about 2,000 people.

It was three hectares. A trapezoid whose river-parallel sides measured 270 and 180 metres, with flanks of about 150 metres. The ground was chosen because it was one of the most undesirable quarters of the city, subject to constant flooding by the Tiber — and because Jews were already 80 per cent of the population there. By the late 1580s, under Sixtus V, roughly 3,500 people were living on it in inhuman conditions.

And the community was made to pay for the wall. It was built under the architect Giovanni Sallustio Peruzzi, and its cost — 300 Roman scudi — had to be paid by the Jewish community.

The gates multiplied as the enclosure grew: two at first, three in the 16th century, five under Sixtus V, eight by the 19th. They opened at dawn and closed every night — one hour after sunset between November and Easter, two hours at other times.

Papal control ended with the capture of Rome in 1870, broken before that only by Napoleon from 1808 to 1815 and the Roman Republics of 1798–99 and 1849.

Today the quarter around Via del Portico d'Ottavia is a working neighbourhood with the Museo Ebraico di Roma and the Tempio Maggiore at its edge. One ticket covers both — EUR 12.00 full, EUR 6.00 for students up to 25 — including a guided visit of the synagogue and a free seven-language audioguide on your own phone.

The defining architectural fact here is a removal. The reference work records that the area contained hardly any noteworthy buildings, that its only important square, Piazza Giudea, was divided in two parts by the wall, and that all the churches which stood in the ghetto were deconsecrated and demolished soon after its construction. A quarter of Rome was deliberately emptied of public architecture.

The perimeter is the design. The wall ran from Ponte Fabricio to the Portico d'Ottavia, then along today's Via del Portico d'Ottavia — not including the ancient fish market — bent at Piazza Giudea, which it cut in two, and continued along Vicolo Cenci, today Via del Progresso, until it reached the Tiber again. It enclosed a trapezoid with river-parallel bases of 270 and 180 metres and sides of about 150 metres: three hectares in total.

The density was the consequence. By the late 1580s roughly 3,500 inhabitants were living inside that boundary, which is why the buildings are tall for their footprint and the lanes between them narrow — the only direction left to build was up.

The ground was the worst available. It was one of the most undesirable quarters of the city, subject to constant flooding by the Tiber, which is both why it was chosen and why so little of the pre-1555 fabric survives.

And nobody had a reason to improve it. Jews could not own property even within the ghetto, while Christian owners, held by the jus gazzagà, could neither evict their tenants nor raise rents — a stalemate in which no party had an incentive to build.

It was commissioned, measured, built and invoiced within a single year. Cum nimis absurdum was promulgated on 14 July 1555; the wall was built under the architect Giovanni Sallustio Peruzzi; and the cost of its construction, 300 Roman scudi, had to be paid by the Jewish community it enclosed.

The line it took was dictated by the river and by an existing ruin. It started from Ponte Fabricio reaching the Portico d'Ottavia, ran along today's Via del Portico d'Ottavia, deliberately excluding the ancient fish market, bent at Piazza Giudea, and followed Vicolo Cenci back to the Tiber.

The site was chosen for two reasons and neither was convenience. It was one of the most undesirable quarters of the city, subject to constant flooding by the Tiber, and Jews already amounted to 80 per cent of the population there — so the enclosure cost the city the least and displaced the fewest Christians.

The structure then grew by addition of gates rather than of space. Two gates at first, three in the 16th century, five under Sixtus V, eight in the 19th — opened at dawn, closed one hour after sunset between November and Easter and two hours at other times.

And the first act of construction was a demolition. All the churches which stood in the ghetto were deconsecrated and demolished soon after the wall went up.

Does it cost anything to visit the ghetto? No. The former ghetto is an ordinary group of public streets. The Museo Ebraico di Roma and the Tempio Maggiore are ticketed.

How much is the museum? EUR 12.00 full, EUR 6.00 for students up to 25 with proof of enrolment, EUR 10.00 under listed agreements. Free for under-10s and for visitors with a disability certificate above 74 per cent, plus a companion where needed.

Is the synagogue a separate ticket? No — the museum ticket includes entry to the Tempio Maggiore with a guided visit, plus a free QR audioguide in seven languages.

When was the ghetto established? 14 July 1555, by Paul IV's bull Cum nimis absurdum.

How big was it? Three hectares — a trapezoid with river-parallel bases of 270 and 180 metres and sides of about 150 metres.

How many people lived there? About 2,000 at its founding; roughly 3,500 by the late 1580s, in inhuman conditions.

Who paid for the wall? The Jewish community. It was built under the architect Giovanni Sallustio Peruzzi and its cost of 300 Roman scudi had to be paid by the community it enclosed.

When did it end? Papal control ended with the capture of Rome in 1870, broken before that only by Napoleon from 1808 to 1815 and the Roman Republics of 1798–99 and 1849.

How old is the community? Probably the oldest in the world outside the Middle East, continuous from classical times; the first record of Jews in Rome is 161 BC.

What are the museum's hours? 1 April to 30 September, Sunday to Thursday 10.00–18.00 and Friday 10.00–16.00. In winter the Sunday-to-Thursday closing moves between 16.00, 16.30 and 17.00 depending on the date, with Friday 9.00–14.00.

Is it open on Saturday? No. The museum is closed on Saturdays and during Jewish festivals.

How long should I allow? About two hours.