Discover Subiaco

Subiaco is a comune in the Metropolitan City of Rome Capital, in Lazio, forty kilometres from Tivoli alongside the River Aniene, with about eight and a half thousand inhabitants. It is one of I Borghi più belli d'Italia.

Its name is a Roman leftover. Nero built a luxurious villa in the gorge here and dammed the Aniene to make three artificial lakes beside it; in Latin Sublaqueum means "under the lake", and the town that grew nearby took the name. The largest of the three dams was the highest in the world until it collapsed in 1305.

What made Subiaco matter, though, happened in a cave. Benedict withdrew from the world as a young man and lived three years in a grotto above the river, fed by a monk named Romanus. From that grotto he worked out the concepts and the organisation of the Benedictine order, and he founded thirteen monasteries in the valley, twelve monks to each.

Only one of the thirteen survives: Santa Scolastica, which carries the title of Protocenobio of the Sublacense Congregation and is the oldest Benedictine monastery still standing. The Sacro Speco, the sanctuary built over Benedict's cave itself, came later, raised by the abbots in the twelfth century.

And in 1465 the abbey became the first place in Italy to have a printing press, set up inside its walls by two Germans, Conrad Sweynheym and Arnold Pannartz.

Why is Subiaco important? Western monasticism began here. Benedict of Nursia lived three years in a cave above the Aniene and founded thirteen monasteries in the valley; the Benedictine order's concepts and organisation were worked out from that grotto.

How many of the thirteen monasteries survive? One. Santa Scolastica, originally dedicated to San Silvestro, which holds the title of Protocenobio of the Sublacense Congregation and is the oldest surviving Benedictine monastery.

What is the Sacro Speco? The sanctuary-monastery built over Benedict's cave, raised in the twelfth century by the abbots above the original memorial of the saint, and fixed to the cliff face.

Where does the name come from? From Nero's artificial lakes: in Latin Sublaqueum means "under the lake". The town took its name from the villa's lakes.

Is there really a Roman dam here? Yes — three of them. The biggest of the Subiaco dams was the highest dam in the world until its destruction in 1305.

What was printed here? The first books printed in Italy. Conrad Sweynheym and Arnold Pannartz set up a press inside the abbey in 1465.

How do I get there from Rome? By Cotral bus from the Ponte Mammolo metro terminus. There is no railway station in Subiaco.

How far are the monasteries from the town? About three kilometres, uphill all the way. Roughly an hour on foot, a few minutes by car.

Is it one of the official "most beautiful villages"? Yes — Subiaco is a member of I Borghi più belli d'Italia.

What else is there besides the monasteries? The Monti Simbruini regional park, including a three-thousand-hectare beech forest on a plateau, Monte Livata at 1,429 metres, and rafting, canoeing, kayaking and trout fishing on the Aniene.

How long should I give it? A full day if you are walking up; half a day with a car if the monasteries are the only objective.