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Tarquinia's sights sit on three separate plateaux, and knowing which is which saves a wasted morning.

The Monterozzi plateau holds the necropolis: over six thousand tombs of every period, with around four hundred painted hypogea dating between the archaic age and Hellenism. A rotating selection is open to visitors, reached by steep modern stairs down into each chamber.

The Civita plateau, north-east, is where the ancient city itself stood, along with the sanctuary of the Ara della Regina.

The modern town holds the national archaeological museum, where detached wall paintings and grave goods are displayed — including material from the tombs that could not be left in situ.

On the coast, the site of Gravisca was the city's emporium, frequented by eastern Greek merchants, and its sanctuary has yielded Greek dedications to Aphrodite, Hera and Apollo.